Following these simple landscaping tips will help you to do landscaping for your house front yard and backyard.
Doing these landscaping tips on your own will surely create that self fulfillment feeling that will surely give you a sense of satisfaction.
Follow these simple landscaping tips to create a front yard that will be the envy of your neighbours.
Simple Landscaping Tips :-
- You will need to know and survey the area that you want to the landscaping on and start making a plan.
Lots of landscapers end up with an ugly home garden because they did not plan well. They just fill up any empty space with potted plants without any landscaping plan.
For you to have a great landscaping success in designing your lawn and landscaping your home, sit down and make a rough sketch of the areas that need landscaping. Assign these landscaping areas where you would like to put the plants. Arrange them in such a way that there will be some order, without sacrificing the beauty of your garden surroundings.
If you are using garden landscape furniture, place it in a strategic place where it will be useful.
Remember to stick to your plan once it is finished.
- Know the reason why you would like to landscape your lawn.
The main objective of home garden landscaping is to maximize the potential of the excess land that you have within your home. Some think that just because you have a grassy area outside the house, it would qualify as a landscaped lawn.
There are a lot of alternative landscaping designs that you can choose to beautify your home garden surroundings.
- Choose the preferred theme for your garden landscaping design.
Find out which plants and trees and determine which are best for surviving the seasons of your area. There are shrubs that are appropriate and will do well in your lawn area during the summer season. During the autumn season, there are trees that you can plant that will show off the landscaping beauty of your garden.
Just imagine all the colors that will contribute to your home garden landscaping design if you select a plant, shrub, flower or tree that blooms or has colorful foliage and looks beautiful during each season of the year.
- Its important to make sure that you water your plants well.
One of the mistakes that homeowners have after they finish their home landscaping design is insufficient irrigation. Make sure that you water and fertilize your plants according to their needs.
If you are going to be away from home, have somebody do the watering for you. Otherwise, you will end up with an ugly, dried-out lawn and/or garden.
Follow these tips and you will have a great-looking front or backyard landscaping that you designed yourself.
29 May 2008
24 May 2008
The Magic of Mulch
Mother Nature herself does a pretty good job of mulching natural areas: She shakes pine trees so their needles sprinkle over the ground underneath and slow the growth of nutrient-robbing weeds. She nudges old bark off of trees and speeds the decomposition of their discarded leaves to slow the evaporation of her rainfall from the ground. Her winds dislodge dry twigs and faded flower petals to keep new growth warm during winter’s promised cold.
As they create their own private gardens and woodlands, gardeners and landscapers follow her example by mulching their new plantings — shrubs, trees, vegetables, ground cover, and annual and perennial flowers — with the same organic materials that she uses: materials produced during plants’ natural life cycles.
Why mulch?
In order to thrive, new plantings need every advantage for a healthy start. Sadly, new home developments usually undergo heavy back filling and grading that alter the naturally occurring proportions of air, moisture, and organic matter in the original soil. Fortunately, over successive years the life cycle of the healthy new plantings slowly recreates ideal soil conditions as it dies and decays. Mulching can accelerate the process.
Organic and inorganic mulching help retain optimal growing conditions in soil by:
• Smothering weeds, so that desirable plants have less competition for water and nutrients.
• Slowing evaporation, extending the time moisture is available to thirsty plants.
• Keeping the soil temperature even by preventing harmful fluctuation during hot and cold extremes.
• Protecting trees and shrubs from injuries inflicted by weed cutters and lawn mowers.
Organic mulch
The most common types of organic mulch are:
• Grass clippings
• Pine needles
• Pine, cedar, and other hardwood tree bark
• Wood chips
• Shredded leaves
• Cocoa bean shells
• Pecan shells
• Ground corn cobs
• Household compost
• Mushroom compost
• Straw
Inorganic mulch
Inorganic mulches, materials that were never part of a living plant or tree, also have a place in landscape projects. Popular inorganic mulches include:
• Pebbles
• Gravel
• Lava rock
• Crushed stone
• Plastic sheeting
• Shredded tires
• Newspaper
• Woven landscape fabric
Selecting mulch
Each type of mulch offers specific advantages and disadvantages. It pays to understand as much as you can to prevent wasting your time, energy, and money.
Organic mulch contains living organisms that interact with a plant’s roots to give it the best possible boost toward a long and healthy life. As it decomposes, organic mulch continues to add nutrients to the soil, creating rich topsoil and preventing soil depletion. (Depletion is one reason why farmers who plant fields devoted to a single crop must let their fields lie fallow over a planting season — there isn’t anything left in the soil to produce healthy crops.) Because it can be worked into the surface soil, organic mulch limits soil crusting and compaction, which results in rainwater runoff and erosion and prevents nutrients from reaching plants’ roots. Organic mulch also encourages denser root growth because new roots can grow into the mulch itself.
A few cautions about organic mulches:
• Grass clippings must be relatively weed-free and dried out to prevent matting.
• Clippings from herbicide-treated lawns should not be used.
• Cypress bark mulching is discouraged by many who fear its threat to southern cypress wetlands in states like Florida and Louisiana.
• Organic mulches provide food for birds, insects, and occasionally vermin.
• They naturally decompose, necessitating replenishment every year or two.
• Large pieces of bark will float away during heavy rain; shredded is preferable, especially on slopes.
• Compost decomposes quite rapidly.
On the other hand, inorganic mulches have the advantage of not decomposing, necessitating frequent replacement; and not attracting insects and vermin. Pebbles can be worked into the soil to lessen the risk of compaction. And inorganic mulches can be used effectively to prevent weed growth and mud in otherwise unplantable soil under decks, steps, and storage areas. Many inorganic mulches are not as effective in regulating soil temperature, however, because they tend to absorb the sun’s rays.
Organic and inorganic mulch can be purchased at garden centers and hardware stores, by the bag or in bulk. Some kinds, such as shredded tree limbs, are available at no cost from electric utilities and municipalities. Mulch sales are also popular fund-raisers for students and young people’s organizations.
Through thoughtful mulching — using organic materials whenever possible — gardeners can become an indelible part of nature’s reproductive life cycle. After all, today’s heirloom seeds are the hand-me-downs of tender, lovingly cared-for shoots from another century, maybe even another culture.
Mulch is about more than cosmetics; it contributes to the natural life cycle of trees, shrubs, vegetables, ground cover and flowers, and fosters the healthy growth of desirable additions to the humblest garden plot and most extensive landscape design.
Perm-A-Mulch 10456 Perm-A-Mulch Border Edging
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Mulch (Gardening Mysteries)
US MULCH LTD 332AH35 "ACE" PINE BARK NUGGETS 2Cu.Ft.
INTERNATIONAL MULCH COMPANY #RM16ET-MW 16LB Earthtone Mulch
Organic Gardening : Soil Solarization for Weed Control
By J. E. Davidson
Organic home gardening has become increasingly popular as we become more aware of how toxic chemicals can harm our health and the health of our environment. Soil solarization is an organic method of keeping weeds from taking over your gardening efforts. Prevent weeds before they even have a chance to grow! Begin your soil solarization in June or July (in the northern hemisphere). During the summer months the heat of the sun will "cook" the weeds for you and also destroy disease-causing plant pathogens in the top few inches of the soil.
Mow the weeds down as low as possible in the area you wish to garden and till the ground thoroughly to a depth of six to eight inches. Use a steel rake to comb out the roots you have turned up. Rake the surface again to smooth it out and water the ground. Sprinklers or drip irrigation work best because you want the soil wet, but you don't want standing puddles. Install a drip irrigation system at this point, if you want one, because you don't want to disturb the soil any more than necessary after the process is finished.
Weed seeds you can't see will be hiding in the soil waiting for a chance to sprout. Dry seeds are heat-resistant and moistening them will make them vulnerable to the high temperature that solarization creates. Particularly vigorous weeds may find their way through landscape fabric and mulch, so you must kill the seeds before they sprout.
Cover the moistened area with clear polyethylene or PVC plastic sheets that are one or two mils thick. Stretch the plastic tightly and weigh it down with bricks to keep it from blowing away. Adding a second plastic sheet will increase the effectiveness of the method by creating a mini-greenhouse effect. Use objects such as bricks or soda cans to create an air gap between the layers of plastic. Leave the plastic sheets on the area for at least four to six weeks and let the sun do its work!
Once you remove the plastic cover don't till the soil again or you may bring weed seeds still deep in the soil back to the surface. Landscape fabric will allow necessary water, air, and nutrients to seep through while discouraging weeds. Some gardeners use black plastic as a landscape fabric, but this will create an environment for harmful bacteria, fungus, and mold to grow. Fasten the landscape fabric down with staple-like pins that are made for this purpose. You don't need many pins, since you will be adding mulch which will help hold the fabric down. Place a pin about every 10 feet along the exposed edges and seams.
Cracks and opening in the landscape fabric give weeds an opportunity to invade your garden again. When figuring the amount you need keep in mind that the fabric should have a three to six inch overlap where the edges meet. A good quality landscape fabric should be fairly stiff and should not stretch or tear. The fabric comes in different thicknesses but the one that weigh three ounces per square yard are usually as effective as heavier weights and will cost less. Choose a name brand landscaping fabric; store brands and off-brands are often low in quality. It may be a bit of an initial expense, but when the fabric is completely covered with mulch, which protects it from the sun, it can last for years.
Once you have covered the garden with landscape fabric wait a few days before planting to allow the soil to cool down. Cut an X-shaped incision in the fabric in the spots where you want plants. Make the cuts only large enough to fit the root ball through, and don't cut circles or holes in the fabric. Fold the flaps back and place the plant in the ground. Try not to scatter much soil on top of the fabric. Once the plants are in place, fold the flaps around them and add mulch.
You may choose not to use landscape fabric, but it will keep your mulch from decomposing as quickly and adds an additional barrier to prevent weed growth. Use weed-free organic mulch. A few airborne weed seeds may settle in your mulch, but they will be easy to pull since the mulch is much looser than garden soil and the roots won't be firmly entrenched.
It won't hurt to leave the plastic sheets on your garden plot for longer than a month or two; long periods of heating will kill persistent weeds like crabgrass and nutsedge. If you are not going to plant right away the plastic will increase the effectiveness of the soil solarization and prevent airborne seeds from contaminating your garden plot.
Organic home gardening has become increasingly popular as we become more aware of how toxic chemicals can harm our health and the health of our environment. Soil solarization is an organic method of keeping weeds from taking over your gardening efforts. Prevent weeds before they even have a chance to grow! Begin your soil solarization in June or July (in the northern hemisphere). During the summer months the heat of the sun will "cook" the weeds for you and also destroy disease-causing plant pathogens in the top few inches of the soil.
Mow the weeds down as low as possible in the area you wish to garden and till the ground thoroughly to a depth of six to eight inches. Use a steel rake to comb out the roots you have turned up. Rake the surface again to smooth it out and water the ground. Sprinklers or drip irrigation work best because you want the soil wet, but you don't want standing puddles. Install a drip irrigation system at this point, if you want one, because you don't want to disturb the soil any more than necessary after the process is finished.
Weed seeds you can't see will be hiding in the soil waiting for a chance to sprout. Dry seeds are heat-resistant and moistening them will make them vulnerable to the high temperature that solarization creates. Particularly vigorous weeds may find their way through landscape fabric and mulch, so you must kill the seeds before they sprout.
Cover the moistened area with clear polyethylene or PVC plastic sheets that are one or two mils thick. Stretch the plastic tightly and weigh it down with bricks to keep it from blowing away. Adding a second plastic sheet will increase the effectiveness of the method by creating a mini-greenhouse effect. Use objects such as bricks or soda cans to create an air gap between the layers of plastic. Leave the plastic sheets on the area for at least four to six weeks and let the sun do its work!
Once you remove the plastic cover don't till the soil again or you may bring weed seeds still deep in the soil back to the surface. Landscape fabric will allow necessary water, air, and nutrients to seep through while discouraging weeds. Some gardeners use black plastic as a landscape fabric, but this will create an environment for harmful bacteria, fungus, and mold to grow. Fasten the landscape fabric down with staple-like pins that are made for this purpose. You don't need many pins, since you will be adding mulch which will help hold the fabric down. Place a pin about every 10 feet along the exposed edges and seams.
Cracks and opening in the landscape fabric give weeds an opportunity to invade your garden again. When figuring the amount you need keep in mind that the fabric should have a three to six inch overlap where the edges meet. A good quality landscape fabric should be fairly stiff and should not stretch or tear. The fabric comes in different thicknesses but the one that weigh three ounces per square yard are usually as effective as heavier weights and will cost less. Choose a name brand landscaping fabric; store brands and off-brands are often low in quality. It may be a bit of an initial expense, but when the fabric is completely covered with mulch, which protects it from the sun, it can last for years.
Once you have covered the garden with landscape fabric wait a few days before planting to allow the soil to cool down. Cut an X-shaped incision in the fabric in the spots where you want plants. Make the cuts only large enough to fit the root ball through, and don't cut circles or holes in the fabric. Fold the flaps back and place the plant in the ground. Try not to scatter much soil on top of the fabric. Once the plants are in place, fold the flaps around them and add mulch.
You may choose not to use landscape fabric, but it will keep your mulch from decomposing as quickly and adds an additional barrier to prevent weed growth. Use weed-free organic mulch. A few airborne weed seeds may settle in your mulch, but they will be easy to pull since the mulch is much looser than garden soil and the roots won't be firmly entrenched.
It won't hurt to leave the plastic sheets on your garden plot for longer than a month or two; long periods of heating will kill persistent weeds like crabgrass and nutsedge. If you are not going to plant right away the plastic will increase the effectiveness of the soil solarization and prevent airborne seeds from contaminating your garden plot.
22 May 2008
A Plan for All Seasons : How to Have a Long Blooming Summer
If you live in a temperate climate, feel free to wander off to count your blessings (or admire your glorious landscape) while the rest of us living in areas with well-defined seasons figure out how to make the most of the time we have left — time, that is, before winter rears its icy head again.
One way to trick ourselves into thinking the time between mid-April and mid-November is longer than it really is is to give ourselves seven months of continual outdoor color. And all that takes is a little time for planning and a little more time for planting, whether for perennial flowers, ground cover, shrubs, or trees (all of which will hereafter be referred to, for simplicity’s sake, as “plants”).
Here are five key tips from landscape professionals :-
• Know which plant hardiness zone you find yourself in. Hard-core gardeners consider their planting zone as important as their area code. Purchasing bulbs and plants from area greenhouses is usually goof-proof, because they don’t sell inappropriate plant stock. If you’re a print or online catalog shopper, though, it’s easy to be seduced by breathtaking color photographs. Absent a background check, however, a gorgeous exotic-looking specimen could very well develop hypothermia, lie down, and die, never ever to be seen again. To avoid wasting time, money, and energy, simply check a map in a reliable gardening book or online to know what plants have a fighting chance of making it from one season to the next where you live.
• Once your trees have leafed out, watch for a few days to learn how much sun shines upon your wannabe garden plots. There may be areas of direct sun, part sun and part shade, and full shade. Many green-thumbers will claim the more sun the better, but don’t give short shrift to shade-loving shrubs and flowers. Granted, it’s harder to create a riot of color in a shady corner, but it just requires a bit more diligence when selecting what to plant (don’t worry – all the information you need is on the tag or label). Hydrangeas, some geraniums, and impatiens will perk up fully shaded areas, along with any of the thousands of varieties of hosta. Speaking of hosta, they’re not all just boring green and white — they vary from golden to cream and bluish- to lime-green; one variety has seersucker-like leaves, another has leaves the size of a dinner plate, and they all have beautiful white or lavender blooms of all sizes and shapes.
• Decide on your fundamental color scheme. Do you want a continuous mix of color from your perennials — for example, yellow narcissus, purple lilac bushes, red roses, orange day lilies, and bronze mums, supplemented by colorful annuals like cosmos, marigolds, and petunias? Or maybe pockets of color throughout the season, for example, all yellows in one corner, blues along the fence and white near the house? Maybe you’d prefer a succession of color, starting with early-blooming yellow jonquils, tulips, buttercups, and forsythia followed by purple irises, creeping phlox, redbud, and clematis; then the oranges of day lilies, trollius, and poppies, and ending the growing season with the reds of sumac, monarda, burning bush, smoketree, and sedum. How about variations on a theme — shades of one, maybe two colors throughout the entire season?
• Rather than attempt to fill the open area of a garden spot with perennials and ground cover, plant just a few, especially if they’re expensive. Then in the fall or following spring you can divide them. If empty spaces bug you, throw down zinnia seeds or plunk in impatiens.
• Barter with neighbors for cuttings: for instance, a fistful of lamium for a bucket of day lilies, a chunk of hosta for a few astilbes. Trading is a win-win-win — one for each of the gardeners and one for the plants that may otherwise be kicked to the curb as punishment for growing fast and thick.
When your back aches most of the time and your fingernails are perpetually dirty, be sure to remind yourself that the first few years of perennial gardening are the hardest. Once you have made the difficult decisions and dug the requisite holes, you will have time to sit back and visually reap what you have sown — that is, right after you’ve done the dead-heading, pruning, and dividing, sure cures for hands itching to feel the soil they haven’t even seen for five long months.
One way to trick ourselves into thinking the time between mid-April and mid-November is longer than it really is is to give ourselves seven months of continual outdoor color. And all that takes is a little time for planning and a little more time for planting, whether for perennial flowers, ground cover, shrubs, or trees (all of which will hereafter be referred to, for simplicity’s sake, as “plants”).
Here are five key tips from landscape professionals :-
• Know which plant hardiness zone you find yourself in. Hard-core gardeners consider their planting zone as important as their area code. Purchasing bulbs and plants from area greenhouses is usually goof-proof, because they don’t sell inappropriate plant stock. If you’re a print or online catalog shopper, though, it’s easy to be seduced by breathtaking color photographs. Absent a background check, however, a gorgeous exotic-looking specimen could very well develop hypothermia, lie down, and die, never ever to be seen again. To avoid wasting time, money, and energy, simply check a map in a reliable gardening book or online to know what plants have a fighting chance of making it from one season to the next where you live.
• Once your trees have leafed out, watch for a few days to learn how much sun shines upon your wannabe garden plots. There may be areas of direct sun, part sun and part shade, and full shade. Many green-thumbers will claim the more sun the better, but don’t give short shrift to shade-loving shrubs and flowers. Granted, it’s harder to create a riot of color in a shady corner, but it just requires a bit more diligence when selecting what to plant (don’t worry – all the information you need is on the tag or label). Hydrangeas, some geraniums, and impatiens will perk up fully shaded areas, along with any of the thousands of varieties of hosta. Speaking of hosta, they’re not all just boring green and white — they vary from golden to cream and bluish- to lime-green; one variety has seersucker-like leaves, another has leaves the size of a dinner plate, and they all have beautiful white or lavender blooms of all sizes and shapes.
• Decide on your fundamental color scheme. Do you want a continuous mix of color from your perennials — for example, yellow narcissus, purple lilac bushes, red roses, orange day lilies, and bronze mums, supplemented by colorful annuals like cosmos, marigolds, and petunias? Or maybe pockets of color throughout the season, for example, all yellows in one corner, blues along the fence and white near the house? Maybe you’d prefer a succession of color, starting with early-blooming yellow jonquils, tulips, buttercups, and forsythia followed by purple irises, creeping phlox, redbud, and clematis; then the oranges of day lilies, trollius, and poppies, and ending the growing season with the reds of sumac, monarda, burning bush, smoketree, and sedum. How about variations on a theme — shades of one, maybe two colors throughout the entire season?
• Rather than attempt to fill the open area of a garden spot with perennials and ground cover, plant just a few, especially if they’re expensive. Then in the fall or following spring you can divide them. If empty spaces bug you, throw down zinnia seeds or plunk in impatiens.
• Barter with neighbors for cuttings: for instance, a fistful of lamium for a bucket of day lilies, a chunk of hosta for a few astilbes. Trading is a win-win-win — one for each of the gardeners and one for the plants that may otherwise be kicked to the curb as punishment for growing fast and thick.
When your back aches most of the time and your fingernails are perpetually dirty, be sure to remind yourself that the first few years of perennial gardening are the hardest. Once you have made the difficult decisions and dug the requisite holes, you will have time to sit back and visually reap what you have sown — that is, right after you’ve done the dead-heading, pruning, and dividing, sure cures for hands itching to feel the soil they haven’t even seen for five long months.
How to Build a Small Terrarium for Your Home or Office
The stress of work can sometimes be overwhelming. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a bit of nature in your office to help relieve your stress? A tiny office terrarium may be the answer. A small terrarium can be quite easy to build and will bring many hours of enjoyment and stress relief.
To build your tiny terrarium, you’ll need a small sized container which can be a goblet, small jar, or a small glass fishbowl. You’ll need to be able to cover the opening of your container with an appropriate lid. If you can't find a suitable lid, you can always cover your tiny terrarium with another glass dish. Here's how to build your tiny terrarium quickly and easily:
1. Layer sheets of moss along the bottom floor of your glass container. Use a long stick to gently flatten the sheets of moss against the container floor.
2. Cover the layer of moss with a layer of fine gravel. This layer is to ensure proper drainage. This will keep the soil layer above from becoming over saturated with water. You can usually find fine gravel at your local gardening supply shop or craft store. Move the gravel around with your stick until it's evenly distributed across the floor of your terrarium.
3. Add another thin layer of moss on top of your gravel layer to prevent soil from seeping down into your gravel layer.
4. Carefully pour a layer of terrarium soil on top of the gravel layer. You can purchase this at your local gardening supply store. Be sure not to add fertilizer as this can cause the plants to overgrow their space very quickly.
5. Choose tiny plants that have similar requirements as far as light and water requirements. If you choose plants with different growth requirements, your terrarium will be impossible to maintain.
6. After choosing your plants, carefully drop them in to the container.
7. Use your stick to dig small holes for the plants and gently push them into the holes until they're secure. Don't crowd the plants. Give them plenty of room to grow and flourish.
8. When the plants are in place, lightly moisten the soil. Don't over water your terrarium.
9.. Cover your new tiny terrarium with a lid or another glass dish.
To care for your new terrarium, always watch the sides of its container for the appearance of condensation. There should be a light mist of moisture on the glass. If large water droplets appear, keep the lid open until it evaporates. You should only need to water your terrarium once a week. Over watering can be a problem, since there's no way for the excessive water to drain out of the container.
Now you can find a suitable place on your desk to display your new terrarium. Enjoy!
To build your tiny terrarium, you’ll need a small sized container which can be a goblet, small jar, or a small glass fishbowl. You’ll need to be able to cover the opening of your container with an appropriate lid. If you can't find a suitable lid, you can always cover your tiny terrarium with another glass dish. Here's how to build your tiny terrarium quickly and easily:
1. Layer sheets of moss along the bottom floor of your glass container. Use a long stick to gently flatten the sheets of moss against the container floor.
2. Cover the layer of moss with a layer of fine gravel. This layer is to ensure proper drainage. This will keep the soil layer above from becoming over saturated with water. You can usually find fine gravel at your local gardening supply shop or craft store. Move the gravel around with your stick until it's evenly distributed across the floor of your terrarium.
3. Add another thin layer of moss on top of your gravel layer to prevent soil from seeping down into your gravel layer.
4. Carefully pour a layer of terrarium soil on top of the gravel layer. You can purchase this at your local gardening supply store. Be sure not to add fertilizer as this can cause the plants to overgrow their space very quickly.
5. Choose tiny plants that have similar requirements as far as light and water requirements. If you choose plants with different growth requirements, your terrarium will be impossible to maintain.
6. After choosing your plants, carefully drop them in to the container.
7. Use your stick to dig small holes for the plants and gently push them into the holes until they're secure. Don't crowd the plants. Give them plenty of room to grow and flourish.
8. When the plants are in place, lightly moisten the soil. Don't over water your terrarium.
9.. Cover your new tiny terrarium with a lid or another glass dish.
To care for your new terrarium, always watch the sides of its container for the appearance of condensation. There should be a light mist of moisture on the glass. If large water droplets appear, keep the lid open until it evaporates. You should only need to water your terrarium once a week. Over watering can be a problem, since there's no way for the excessive water to drain out of the container.
Now you can find a suitable place on your desk to display your new terrarium. Enjoy!
Top 5 Landscaping Mistakes to Avoid
You can create stunning landscaping designs if you avoid these common pitfalls. Beautiful landscaping can increase the value of your house and compliment the other aesthetic qualities of your home.
The Top 5 Mistakes
1. Losing the House. There is such a thing as too much landscaping. Carefully consider the style, size, and shape of your home before you plan the landscaping. Your home should not be overwhelmed by foliage. Rather, the lawn should smoothly transition into the house.
2. Have a Plan! A dangerous combination of excitement and hastiness can result in a landscaping disaster. Carefully plan every detail of your landscape, and don’t stray from the plan! Otherwise, you’ll end up with an ugly hodgepodge of design. Sudden, dramatic changes of design result in a spotted lawn where you had to dig up your mistakes.
Parts of the Plan:
Planting Techniques -- Prepping the Soil
Plants can be grown in almost any kind of soil. You just need to break up the soil so the roots can grow freely. Add lime and the proper nutrients suggested by your soil test report. The depth at which you plant is also important. Shrubs and trees need to be planted at the same depths as they were planted in their pots. Flower seeds and bulbs come with planting instructions, so follow the directions carefully!
Fertilization
Most shrubs and trees need to be fertilized early in the spring. There is such a thing as too much fertilizer, so use it with discretion.
Plant Selection
If there is an exotic plant you have your eye on, consult the USDA Hardiness Zone Map to see if the plan even has a chance of survival in your climate.
Plant Location
Once you have selected your plants, the next step is to decide where you want to plant them. Familiarize yourself with all aspects of your lawn. Where is it sunny all day? Where is there shade? Is the soil wet, or dry? Certain plants grow better in dry dirt with sunny conditions, while other plants need more shade and wet soil. Find out the needs of each plant and discover which plants your lawn can sustain. Also, remember that plants grow! Be sure to plant shrubs far enough away from each other so they have plenty of room to grow.
Be Brave!
There are certain, safe plants everyone uses in landscape because they are known to be hardy, cheap plants. Well, be brave and try something new! You’ll be the envy of the neighbors if you plant beautiful, exotic-looking plants on your front lawn.
3. Know Thy Budget. Plants can be expensive, especially if they are shipped into the country. Make a budget ahead of time, and be realistic about it. Don’t blow your entire budget on one plant.
4. To reiterate: Plants GROW! Make sure you know the exact size that tree will be five years from planting it. You don’t want a gigantic tree in front of your home, obscuring everything.
5. Straight Lines are Out. Traditional landscaping was all about grids and straight lines. That’s over. Experiment with curves! Make a plan with curving lines. It looks more natural and organic.
The Top 5 Mistakes
1. Losing the House. There is such a thing as too much landscaping. Carefully consider the style, size, and shape of your home before you plan the landscaping. Your home should not be overwhelmed by foliage. Rather, the lawn should smoothly transition into the house.
2. Have a Plan! A dangerous combination of excitement and hastiness can result in a landscaping disaster. Carefully plan every detail of your landscape, and don’t stray from the plan! Otherwise, you’ll end up with an ugly hodgepodge of design. Sudden, dramatic changes of design result in a spotted lawn where you had to dig up your mistakes.
Parts of the Plan:
Planting Techniques -- Prepping the Soil
Plants can be grown in almost any kind of soil. You just need to break up the soil so the roots can grow freely. Add lime and the proper nutrients suggested by your soil test report. The depth at which you plant is also important. Shrubs and trees need to be planted at the same depths as they were planted in their pots. Flower seeds and bulbs come with planting instructions, so follow the directions carefully!
Fertilization
Most shrubs and trees need to be fertilized early in the spring. There is such a thing as too much fertilizer, so use it with discretion.
Plant Selection
If there is an exotic plant you have your eye on, consult the USDA Hardiness Zone Map to see if the plan even has a chance of survival in your climate.
Plant Location
Once you have selected your plants, the next step is to decide where you want to plant them. Familiarize yourself with all aspects of your lawn. Where is it sunny all day? Where is there shade? Is the soil wet, or dry? Certain plants grow better in dry dirt with sunny conditions, while other plants need more shade and wet soil. Find out the needs of each plant and discover which plants your lawn can sustain. Also, remember that plants grow! Be sure to plant shrubs far enough away from each other so they have plenty of room to grow.
Be Brave!
There are certain, safe plants everyone uses in landscape because they are known to be hardy, cheap plants. Well, be brave and try something new! You’ll be the envy of the neighbors if you plant beautiful, exotic-looking plants on your front lawn.
3. Know Thy Budget. Plants can be expensive, especially if they are shipped into the country. Make a budget ahead of time, and be realistic about it. Don’t blow your entire budget on one plant.
4. To reiterate: Plants GROW! Make sure you know the exact size that tree will be five years from planting it. You don’t want a gigantic tree in front of your home, obscuring everything.
5. Straight Lines are Out. Traditional landscaping was all about grids and straight lines. That’s over. Experiment with curves! Make a plan with curving lines. It looks more natural and organic.
Grow a Juniper Bonsai Tree
A juniper bonsai tree is the perfect introduction to bonsai gardening.
Juniper trees are easy to grow and versatile.
Covered in beautiful, evergreen leaves, juniper trees also flower in the spring, producing stunning, creamy white flower clusters.
Why a Juniper Bonsai ?
Besides its beauty, a juniper tree is easy to grow. It can be grown either indoors or outdoors, though it prefers to be outdoors in a container. This makes the juniper tree the perfect plant for a sunny or partially sunny patio. Junipers are not picky plants and do not require special soil. They are easily trained into interesting shapes. Juniper trees actually prefer to be mildly neglected and will thrive in this state more than if they were over-watered or over-fed.
How to Get Started
Buy a plant from a reputable dealer. When a juniper bonsai is transplanted, it is in shock for a period of four to six weeks because its roots have been disturbed. Ask the dealer when the plant was transplanted and only buy a plant that has been in its pot for about three months. Likewise, a change in environment is difficult for a juniper bonsai. So, buying a well-established plant will help it to overcome the change in environment.
Winter Care for a Juniper Tree
The juniper bonsai will go into dormancy during the winter months. Depending on your climate, you may prefer to move your juniper tree indoors for the winter months to protect it from heavy snow. A juniper tree prefers to be in an unheated room, such as an enclosed back porch or a garage that gets daily natural light. If your juniper bonsai is an indoor plant, it still needs to go into dormancy in the winter months and should still be placed in a cool room. Continue to water if the soil feels dry, but do not over water.
Repotting
While less than five or six years old, a juniper bonsai should be repotted every two years. Once the plant has aged, it needs to be repotted every three to five years. The best time to repot a juniper bonsai is in the spring or fall. Water thoroughly and keep the plant in a shady location for a month or two after repotting to allow for new root growth.
Complications of Juniper Bonsai Care
Not allowing the juniper bonsai to go into dormancy in the winter months will eventually result in an unhealthy plant. It is crucial that the plants are moved to a cool location during this period, whether they are indoor or outdoor plants. Placing the juniper tree in a room, such as a basement, that gets no natural light will kill the plant. Juniper bonsai trees need some light during the dormancy period.
Sources: bonsaiofbrooklyn.com, shbonsai.com, bonsaigardener.org
Juniper trees are easy to grow and versatile.
Covered in beautiful, evergreen leaves, juniper trees also flower in the spring, producing stunning, creamy white flower clusters.
Why a Juniper Bonsai ?
Besides its beauty, a juniper tree is easy to grow. It can be grown either indoors or outdoors, though it prefers to be outdoors in a container. This makes the juniper tree the perfect plant for a sunny or partially sunny patio. Junipers are not picky plants and do not require special soil. They are easily trained into interesting shapes. Juniper trees actually prefer to be mildly neglected and will thrive in this state more than if they were over-watered or over-fed.
How to Get Started
Buy a plant from a reputable dealer. When a juniper bonsai is transplanted, it is in shock for a period of four to six weeks because its roots have been disturbed. Ask the dealer when the plant was transplanted and only buy a plant that has been in its pot for about three months. Likewise, a change in environment is difficult for a juniper bonsai. So, buying a well-established plant will help it to overcome the change in environment.
Winter Care for a Juniper Tree
The juniper bonsai will go into dormancy during the winter months. Depending on your climate, you may prefer to move your juniper tree indoors for the winter months to protect it from heavy snow. A juniper tree prefers to be in an unheated room, such as an enclosed back porch or a garage that gets daily natural light. If your juniper bonsai is an indoor plant, it still needs to go into dormancy in the winter months and should still be placed in a cool room. Continue to water if the soil feels dry, but do not over water.
Repotting
While less than five or six years old, a juniper bonsai should be repotted every two years. Once the plant has aged, it needs to be repotted every three to five years. The best time to repot a juniper bonsai is in the spring or fall. Water thoroughly and keep the plant in a shady location for a month or two after repotting to allow for new root growth.
Complications of Juniper Bonsai Care
Not allowing the juniper bonsai to go into dormancy in the winter months will eventually result in an unhealthy plant. It is crucial that the plants are moved to a cool location during this period, whether they are indoor or outdoor plants. Placing the juniper tree in a room, such as a basement, that gets no natural light will kill the plant. Juniper bonsai trees need some light during the dormancy period.
Sources: bonsaiofbrooklyn.com, shbonsai.com, bonsaigardener.org
How to Get Rid of Slugs
If you’re an avid gardener you may have encountered the frustrating problem of slugs.
They can feed on vegetables, fruits, and plants, in your garden making them more susceptible to damage and disease. Plus, they can be difficult to completely eradicate from a garden although certain steps can be taken to reduce their numbers. They do have the positive role of helping to maintain the health of the soil but the damage they can cause to plants is sometimes more than even a kind hearted gardener can tolerate.
If you’ve had your fill of slugs are ready to take action, here are some ways to eliminate slugs:
How to get rid of slugs : Reduce moisture and dead leaves
Slugs thrive in areas of high moisture and moist surfaces are required for the young ones to hatch. Plus, they’re nocturnal creatures. You can take advantage of this fact by watering your garden in the morning to ensure there’s less moisture around when the slugs come out after dusk. Remove any obvious sources of moisture that might attract slugs to your garden. Also keep your garden clear of dead leaves which can serve as hiding places for slugs. Keep your raised beds as clear of debris as possible.
How to get rid of slugs : Encourage their predators
By having a diversity of plants growing in your garden you’ll be more likely to encourage some of the slugs hungry predators which include garter snakes, beetles, turtles, frogs, toads, lizards and birds. Hang a variety of bird feeders around your garden to encourage birds to regularly visit your garden. This is a natural way to keep the slug population under control and help to keep the birds well fed.
How to get rid of slugs : Remove them by hand
This is a simple, all natural way to reduce the slug population in your garden. Simply put on gloves and gather a pail at around dusk when the slugs come out in force. Use your gloved hands to remove them as they emerge from the soil. Place them in your pail and dispose of them outside the boundaries of your garden. If this is done consistently along with reducing moisture and hiding places for the slugs, you can reduce their numbers considerably.
How to get rid of slugs : Use beer
Slugs are attracted to the smell of beer. Find some shallow metal pans and fill them with beer. Place the pans beneath the soil so the rim is level with the ground. The slugs will be attracted to the beer and will fall into the pan and drown.
How to get rid of slugs : Use the power of copper
Just as much as slugs enjoy beer, they avoid copper as it can interact with the slime they produce on the surface of their bodies. You can use copper screening and copper foiling to provide barriers to slugs around certain plants and plant beds. Another solution is to mix one part copper sulphate with four parts garden lime dissolved in water. Use this solution around the edges of your garden. This mixture can also be purchased at gardening stores ready made.
Although slugs can be a source of frustration for any gardener, there are a variety of simple ways to help reduce their population as well as their potential to damage your plants. Don’t let the slugs destroy your well planned garden and plants.
They can feed on vegetables, fruits, and plants, in your garden making them more susceptible to damage and disease. Plus, they can be difficult to completely eradicate from a garden although certain steps can be taken to reduce their numbers. They do have the positive role of helping to maintain the health of the soil but the damage they can cause to plants is sometimes more than even a kind hearted gardener can tolerate.
If you’ve had your fill of slugs are ready to take action, here are some ways to eliminate slugs:
How to get rid of slugs : Reduce moisture and dead leaves
Slugs thrive in areas of high moisture and moist surfaces are required for the young ones to hatch. Plus, they’re nocturnal creatures. You can take advantage of this fact by watering your garden in the morning to ensure there’s less moisture around when the slugs come out after dusk. Remove any obvious sources of moisture that might attract slugs to your garden. Also keep your garden clear of dead leaves which can serve as hiding places for slugs. Keep your raised beds as clear of debris as possible.
How to get rid of slugs : Encourage their predators
By having a diversity of plants growing in your garden you’ll be more likely to encourage some of the slugs hungry predators which include garter snakes, beetles, turtles, frogs, toads, lizards and birds. Hang a variety of bird feeders around your garden to encourage birds to regularly visit your garden. This is a natural way to keep the slug population under control and help to keep the birds well fed.
How to get rid of slugs : Remove them by hand
This is a simple, all natural way to reduce the slug population in your garden. Simply put on gloves and gather a pail at around dusk when the slugs come out in force. Use your gloved hands to remove them as they emerge from the soil. Place them in your pail and dispose of them outside the boundaries of your garden. If this is done consistently along with reducing moisture and hiding places for the slugs, you can reduce their numbers considerably.
How to get rid of slugs : Use beer
Slugs are attracted to the smell of beer. Find some shallow metal pans and fill them with beer. Place the pans beneath the soil so the rim is level with the ground. The slugs will be attracted to the beer and will fall into the pan and drown.
How to get rid of slugs : Use the power of copper
Just as much as slugs enjoy beer, they avoid copper as it can interact with the slime they produce on the surface of their bodies. You can use copper screening and copper foiling to provide barriers to slugs around certain plants and plant beds. Another solution is to mix one part copper sulphate with four parts garden lime dissolved in water. Use this solution around the edges of your garden. This mixture can also be purchased at gardening stores ready made.
Although slugs can be a source of frustration for any gardener, there are a variety of simple ways to help reduce their population as well as their potential to damage your plants. Don’t let the slugs destroy your well planned garden and plants.
21 May 2008
How to Grow Plants Indoors Even With Limited Space and Light
Are you an avid indoor gardener ? Is your home filled to the brim with plants and flowers? If so, you may find that you’re running out of space for your growing greenery. This can be a particular problem if your home has limited window space to illuminate your plants.
The best solution for expanding your ability to grow plants indoors is to increase the amount of space that receives sunlight in your home. If you don’t want to go to the expense and effort of building a greenhouse, there are still options available to you for growing plants indoors:
Grow plants indoors : Build a window case
This can be an inexpensive and effective option for growing plants indoors. If you do the work yourself without the benefit of a kit, you can construct a window case for less than $300.00 and the construction can be completed in a weekend. This is a very attractive option for growing plants and gives you the ability to grow a variety of flowering plants in west or south facing window cases.
If your window case is constructed to receive the sun from the north or east, you can successfully grow greens for salads as well as herbs. If you want to construct a window case quickly and easily, a company called Tru-frame can provide you with a kit for getting the job done fast. Simply do a Google search for “Tru-frame greenhouse windows”. These windows not only allow you to grow your favorite plants indoors but also add beautiful sunlight to your home.
Grow plants indoors : Build window shelves
Do you have a deep-set window frame in an area that receives the sunlight? If so, you can install glass shelves to hold your plants. It can be as simple as having one half inch glass shelves cut to the dimensions of your window frame. The glass shelves can be placed on steel corner brackets that you install into the window casing on each side. This is an ultra simple and inexpensive solution for giving your plants more light and room to grow. Window shelves will also add a touch of beauty to your home.
Grow plants indoors : Add supplemental lighting
Sometimes you can use the space you have for growing plants indoors by adding supplemental lighting. One solution if your house is limited by light is to add fluorescent lamps or a fluorescent lighting system to your home. Be sure to shop around and get good quality fluorescent lighting since some inexpensive shop fixtures will have a limited life span. You can also use reflective Mylar with these fixtures to direct more light to your growing plants. Pay a visit to your local greenhouse or nursery and see what home lighting solutions they have available to meet your indoor growing needs.
You can still enjoy watching beautiful plants and flowers grow in your home even if your home is limited on space and light. Why not see if one of these solutions will work for you?
The best solution for expanding your ability to grow plants indoors is to increase the amount of space that receives sunlight in your home. If you don’t want to go to the expense and effort of building a greenhouse, there are still options available to you for growing plants indoors:
Grow plants indoors : Build a window case
This can be an inexpensive and effective option for growing plants indoors. If you do the work yourself without the benefit of a kit, you can construct a window case for less than $300.00 and the construction can be completed in a weekend. This is a very attractive option for growing plants and gives you the ability to grow a variety of flowering plants in west or south facing window cases.
If your window case is constructed to receive the sun from the north or east, you can successfully grow greens for salads as well as herbs. If you want to construct a window case quickly and easily, a company called Tru-frame can provide you with a kit for getting the job done fast. Simply do a Google search for “Tru-frame greenhouse windows”. These windows not only allow you to grow your favorite plants indoors but also add beautiful sunlight to your home.
Grow plants indoors : Build window shelves
Do you have a deep-set window frame in an area that receives the sunlight? If so, you can install glass shelves to hold your plants. It can be as simple as having one half inch glass shelves cut to the dimensions of your window frame. The glass shelves can be placed on steel corner brackets that you install into the window casing on each side. This is an ultra simple and inexpensive solution for giving your plants more light and room to grow. Window shelves will also add a touch of beauty to your home.
Grow plants indoors : Add supplemental lighting
Sometimes you can use the space you have for growing plants indoors by adding supplemental lighting. One solution if your house is limited by light is to add fluorescent lamps or a fluorescent lighting system to your home. Be sure to shop around and get good quality fluorescent lighting since some inexpensive shop fixtures will have a limited life span. You can also use reflective Mylar with these fixtures to direct more light to your growing plants. Pay a visit to your local greenhouse or nursery and see what home lighting solutions they have available to meet your indoor growing needs.
You can still enjoy watching beautiful plants and flowers grow in your home even if your home is limited on space and light. Why not see if one of these solutions will work for you?
14 May 2008
Just Add Water
I would not describe myself as green fingered in any way. When it comes to the outdoor space I am useless and am quite content to leave the work to my husband and revel in the finished product. However I have dabbled in doing a bit of indoor gardening, though nothing too complicated.
Basically I have used indoor growing kits to successfully grow tomatoes and mushrooms. Not very exciting you might think but for me a major achievement in the growing stakes. I found the experience very satisfying and it was very inexpensive to do. I haven't invested in any equipment, which hopefully I will do soon nor do I have anywhere special to grow the plants. I have been looking into some equipments s that catches my attention such as the growlight, envirolite and a small grow tent.
On my first occasion I was given a mushroom growing kit, it was a large bag which contained what I thought was plain soil. I was looking for the seeds, but there were none. These mushroom growing kits contain everything you need except water. Basically all I had to do was open the bag, lengthwise and then water. The results were visible in a few days and quite soon I had a reasonable crop of mushrooms.
The tomato kit was a little more complicated, but not difficult, again everything other than water was contained in the kit. It was a little pot and some dried up material, the dried up material had to be put in the pot and water added. After a few days a few shoots started to appear and eventually these grew into tomato plants. Again with continual watering I was able to harvest a small tomato crop.
I was never going to become self-sufficient with these efforts but they were very simple to do and rewarding. They also gave me the enthusiasm to take a little more interest in the big outdoor space and I am learning a little about gardening or am I doing what could be termed as hydroponics?
Basically I have used indoor growing kits to successfully grow tomatoes and mushrooms. Not very exciting you might think but for me a major achievement in the growing stakes. I found the experience very satisfying and it was very inexpensive to do. I haven't invested in any equipment, which hopefully I will do soon nor do I have anywhere special to grow the plants. I have been looking into some equipments s that catches my attention such as the growlight, envirolite and a small grow tent.
On my first occasion I was given a mushroom growing kit, it was a large bag which contained what I thought was plain soil. I was looking for the seeds, but there were none. These mushroom growing kits contain everything you need except water. Basically all I had to do was open the bag, lengthwise and then water. The results were visible in a few days and quite soon I had a reasonable crop of mushrooms.
The tomato kit was a little more complicated, but not difficult, again everything other than water was contained in the kit. It was a little pot and some dried up material, the dried up material had to be put in the pot and water added. After a few days a few shoots started to appear and eventually these grew into tomato plants. Again with continual watering I was able to harvest a small tomato crop.
I was never going to become self-sufficient with these efforts but they were very simple to do and rewarding. They also gave me the enthusiasm to take a little more interest in the big outdoor space and I am learning a little about gardening or am I doing what could be termed as hydroponics?
04 May 2008
Orchid Growing for Beginners
Orchid Growing for Beginners
By Michael Collins
Orchids are one of the most popular plants around, and with good reason: consisting of over 20,000 different species, the orchid family has countless options for the home gardener, and their ease of hybridization means that there are almost an infinite number of variations possible. Naturally, orchids tend to be a big draw for both the amateur and the serious green-thumb.
Orchids have gotten a bad rap, though - it seems there's a rumor going around that these prodigious plants are somehow difficult to grow. Well, that's just bunk! If you know the basics of orchid care, your orchids can be as beautiful as any out in the wild, and it doesn't take a master naturalist to do it, either!
There are two types of orchids. The first type, the tropical epiphytic orchid, is the most common. It's name describes how it grows: on top of other plants. Epiphytic orchids can be found near the dark bottoms of forests, sticking to well-shaded tree trunks, branches, and rocks. There are many options to select when growing these: some can be potted (terra cotta works best, but plastic will do in a pinch), but a few, like the stanhopea or Dracula orchid, need to be grown in a basket, since their flowers grow downward.
The most fascinating ability of epiphytic orchids, though, allows for the greatest decorative possibilities: because they can cling to the surfaces of other plants, epiphytic orchids can be mounted to an upright piece of wood, tying the roots down with string until the plant can establish itself. This allows for much more variety in placement. Be warned, though - a mounted plant doesn't have the advantage of a water-retaining soil or plant, so it'll need to be watered more often than other types of planted orchid. A small bit of moss, placed behind the plant, can help to keep it moist before it can sink its roots into the wood.
The other type of orchid is called terrestrial. As its name implies, these orchids grow on the ground. Although in the minority of orchid species (comprising only around 25% of all orchids), all European orchids can be classified as terrestrial, which means that these orchids will grow best in the temperate North American climes. These orchids all require a pot.
A lot of advancement has been made since orchids were first discovered - once thought to require ultra-hot, dry air, it is now known that orchids are high-altitude plants, which means that they like lots of air flow, cooler temperatures, and humidity.
Most orchids will be fine with temperatures of around 20-30 degrees Celsius, but the serious grower should ask the seller about temperature classifications: an orchid classified as "cool" will be able to withstand nighttime temperatures down to 10 degrees Celsius. Generally, you should just keep in mind that the higher the temperature, the more water your orchid will need.
Because of their high-altitude homes, orchids thrive when air-circulation is good, so a fan that is kept blowing near (but not on) your plants will make them happy plants.
The number one leading cause of death for orchids is, believe it or not, over-watering. An orchid does love humidity, but you should remember that they have evolved to live at the bottom of wooded areas, where precipitation may not be as forthcoming as in other areas. Orchids have characteristics that allow them to hold water for days, and terrestrial orchids can draw the water up from the soil. During the active growing season, an orchid should require watering no more often than twice per week.
In fact, water quality is much more important than quantity: orchids live best on pure rain water, so, if possible, try to collect it and use that to water you plants. If that's not feasible, then leave some filtered water outside to stand overnight - this will get rid of any chlorine, and will also bring the water up to the same temperature as the surrounding air. Using cold water on your plants will damage the leaves, turning them black.
Orchids loves humidity, so consider using a humidifier on indoor plants. Outdoor plants, if not in a humid climate, can be sparingly sprayed with water.
Food is often the source of an orchid grower's confusion: should I use fertilizer on my plants? The answer is likely to lean toward "no, but..." That "but" is reserved for plants that aren't growing in a nutrient-rich bark-based compost. Even then, fertilizers should only be a dilute nitrate solution (about 1/4 to 1/2 strength). Too much food, like cold water, will turn the leaves black.
All orchids should be planted in a bark-based compost - the garden-variety, hardware-store mulch is unsuitable for them. The compost should be very porous, as a soil which blocks drainage will allow the roots to rot. This material breaks down after a while, and should be replaced at the first signs of decomposition. Rockwool, a material that is spun from lava rock, can be a better alternative to the compost - it is just as, if not more, porous than the compost, and holds water just as well.
It does have one distinct advantage, though: rock does not decay, and so replacement of the mixture is usually never necessary. Just make sure you know that rockwool holds water differently from compost, and that your watering habits will need to be adjusted accordingly.
After their growing season, all orchids enter a period of dormancy in which they are still alive, but do not grow. During this time, you must still water your orchid (though not nearly as much), and it is a good time for reflection: wasn't that easier than you were led to believe? Happy orchid growing!
By Michael Collins
Orchids are one of the most popular plants around, and with good reason: consisting of over 20,000 different species, the orchid family has countless options for the home gardener, and their ease of hybridization means that there are almost an infinite number of variations possible. Naturally, orchids tend to be a big draw for both the amateur and the serious green-thumb.
Orchids have gotten a bad rap, though - it seems there's a rumor going around that these prodigious plants are somehow difficult to grow. Well, that's just bunk! If you know the basics of orchid care, your orchids can be as beautiful as any out in the wild, and it doesn't take a master naturalist to do it, either!
There are two types of orchids. The first type, the tropical epiphytic orchid, is the most common. It's name describes how it grows: on top of other plants. Epiphytic orchids can be found near the dark bottoms of forests, sticking to well-shaded tree trunks, branches, and rocks. There are many options to select when growing these: some can be potted (terra cotta works best, but plastic will do in a pinch), but a few, like the stanhopea or Dracula orchid, need to be grown in a basket, since their flowers grow downward.
The most fascinating ability of epiphytic orchids, though, allows for the greatest decorative possibilities: because they can cling to the surfaces of other plants, epiphytic orchids can be mounted to an upright piece of wood, tying the roots down with string until the plant can establish itself. This allows for much more variety in placement. Be warned, though - a mounted plant doesn't have the advantage of a water-retaining soil or plant, so it'll need to be watered more often than other types of planted orchid. A small bit of moss, placed behind the plant, can help to keep it moist before it can sink its roots into the wood.
The other type of orchid is called terrestrial. As its name implies, these orchids grow on the ground. Although in the minority of orchid species (comprising only around 25% of all orchids), all European orchids can be classified as terrestrial, which means that these orchids will grow best in the temperate North American climes. These orchids all require a pot.
A lot of advancement has been made since orchids were first discovered - once thought to require ultra-hot, dry air, it is now known that orchids are high-altitude plants, which means that they like lots of air flow, cooler temperatures, and humidity.
Most orchids will be fine with temperatures of around 20-30 degrees Celsius, but the serious grower should ask the seller about temperature classifications: an orchid classified as "cool" will be able to withstand nighttime temperatures down to 10 degrees Celsius. Generally, you should just keep in mind that the higher the temperature, the more water your orchid will need.
Because of their high-altitude homes, orchids thrive when air-circulation is good, so a fan that is kept blowing near (but not on) your plants will make them happy plants.
The number one leading cause of death for orchids is, believe it or not, over-watering. An orchid does love humidity, but you should remember that they have evolved to live at the bottom of wooded areas, where precipitation may not be as forthcoming as in other areas. Orchids have characteristics that allow them to hold water for days, and terrestrial orchids can draw the water up from the soil. During the active growing season, an orchid should require watering no more often than twice per week.
In fact, water quality is much more important than quantity: orchids live best on pure rain water, so, if possible, try to collect it and use that to water you plants. If that's not feasible, then leave some filtered water outside to stand overnight - this will get rid of any chlorine, and will also bring the water up to the same temperature as the surrounding air. Using cold water on your plants will damage the leaves, turning them black.
Orchids loves humidity, so consider using a humidifier on indoor plants. Outdoor plants, if not in a humid climate, can be sparingly sprayed with water.
Food is often the source of an orchid grower's confusion: should I use fertilizer on my plants? The answer is likely to lean toward "no, but..." That "but" is reserved for plants that aren't growing in a nutrient-rich bark-based compost. Even then, fertilizers should only be a dilute nitrate solution (about 1/4 to 1/2 strength). Too much food, like cold water, will turn the leaves black.
All orchids should be planted in a bark-based compost - the garden-variety, hardware-store mulch is unsuitable for them. The compost should be very porous, as a soil which blocks drainage will allow the roots to rot. This material breaks down after a while, and should be replaced at the first signs of decomposition. Rockwool, a material that is spun from lava rock, can be a better alternative to the compost - it is just as, if not more, porous than the compost, and holds water just as well.
It does have one distinct advantage, though: rock does not decay, and so replacement of the mixture is usually never necessary. Just make sure you know that rockwool holds water differently from compost, and that your watering habits will need to be adjusted accordingly.
After their growing season, all orchids enter a period of dormancy in which they are still alive, but do not grow. During this time, you must still water your orchid (though not nearly as much), and it is a good time for reflection: wasn't that easier than you were led to believe? Happy orchid growing!
About Day Lillies
About Day Lillies.
Landscaping around buildings and other areas can be very beautiful with the addition of a row of day lilies. The day lily is a sun loving plant and its blooms are on fan like stems. Day lillies bloom for one day, then the next day another blooms in its place, thus the name day lily. Day lilies that get the required care can bloom up to a remarkable ten years or more and can be planted whenever the soil can be worked successfully, usually three out of the four seasons. The care of day lillies will be discussed further in this article.
Planting requirements
Day lillies, because of the eventual growth they take, require extra room to take into consideration when adding to a garden or as edging such as for a sidewalk. If replanting within a few years (usually 3-5 years) then provide a diameter of about 16-18 inches. If you have no plans for replanting, then leave a diameter of 24-30 inches for the plant to grow to its full width. Day lillies require plenty of sunlight, though some shade is acceptable. If at all possible provide 6-8 hours of sun in a loose soil without sand or gravel so growth will be as prolific as possible. Avoid areas where there is either shallow ground or low areas where puddles appear when it rains.
Care of Day Lillies
Day lillies require much rain or late afternoon watering before and during the flowering stage. Mulching with 1-4 inches of any variety of mulches, such as woodchips, leaves, or grass along with adequate fertilizer is also necessary in order to prevent weeds and keep an adequate level of moisture around the plants for healthy growth. Dividing of the plants in order to stimulate growth may be necessary later in the plants life. Day lillies live for a long time and are very easy to care for. In addition, they can handle drought very well and come in many very beautiful colors.
Dividing
Should the blooms become sparse or not seem to bloom well even after additional applications of fertilizer and improving other possible soil situations, then it is very possible that dividing will be necessary to rejuvenate growth. When dividing, first dig as much of the root up as possible and after hosing the plant off use a knife to divide the plant between the fans at the base of the plant, while trying to avoid cutting the root at all if possible. Divide the plants with anywhere between 1-3 fans wherever possible.
Hemerocallis (day lily) has become one of America’s favorite perennial’s. Originally, from Japan and other Asian countries, it made its way to England and eventually to America in the early 1900's. Improvements in the plant were made as hybridizers strengthened it in many ways including blooming seasons, flower form, and color. Thus, the day lily is an easy plant to care for as well as one that tolerates the warmer climates such as those in California and Texas.
Day Lily Fairies - Gift Enclosure Cards (set of 12)
How To Preserve Fresh Flowers and Keep Them Beautiful
How To Preserve Fresh Flowers and Keep Them Beautiful.
Fresh flowers can be so beautiful, but they don’t last for very long before they become limp and lackluster. The good news is there are ways to preserve your fresh flowers so they’ll last longer and keep your home looking colorful. Some methods for preserving flowers work well, while others don’t live up to their claims. Here are some methods for preserving fresh flowers that work and some that don’t:
Aspirin
Aspirin is thought to increase the acidity of the water your flowers are placed in which helps to keep them fresh longer. To use aspirin to keep your flowers fresh, drop one tablet into the vase. Experimentation shows this method doesn’t work well.
Add a penny
It has been claimed that adding a penny to your flower water preserves flowers by acting as an antibacterial and fungicide. Although this method is quick and inexpensive, it doesn’t appear to work well in practice.
Bleach
Bleach is though to preserve fresh flowers by preventing the growth of mold on the flowers. It’s recommended that a cup of bleach be added to the water in your flower vase to keep flowers perky and fresh. Experimentation has shown this does seem to prolong the life of fresh flowers, but causes some color fading.
Changing the water
This method of preserving fresh flowers is thought to prevent bacteria from overgrowing in the water causing the flowers to die prematurely. This is a technique that appears to live up to its claims.
Sugar
The idea here is the addition of a teaspoon of sugar will mimic the rush of sugar that occurs naturally in plants during the process of photosynthesis. Studies have shown this does promote the lifespan of fresh flowers.
Preventing temperature changes and avoidance of direct sunlight
This is another method that appears to work in preserving the freshness of flowers. This can expand the life of fresh flowers by several days.
Commercial Flower food
This seems to be the most effective way to preserve fresh flowers. How does it work? The ingredients in flower food help to reduce the concentration of bacteria in the water, keep the water acidic, and supply the flowers with sugar. By adding commercial flower food to the vase, you may be able to keep your flowers fresh for a full week.
If you want to keep your flowers fresh and bright for a longer period of time, choose your methods wisely. It appears that the use of commercial flower food and taking simple measures to keep your flowers out of direct sunlight and away from extreme temperatures works the best. If you don’t have flower food available, adding sugar to the water and changing the water frequently can help to keep flowers fresh longer.
Preserving your fresh flowers can keep those beautiful colors around longer and give you the psychological boost you need.
Fresh flowers can be so beautiful, but they don’t last for very long before they become limp and lackluster. The good news is there are ways to preserve your fresh flowers so they’ll last longer and keep your home looking colorful. Some methods for preserving flowers work well, while others don’t live up to their claims. Here are some methods for preserving fresh flowers that work and some that don’t:
Aspirin
Aspirin is thought to increase the acidity of the water your flowers are placed in which helps to keep them fresh longer. To use aspirin to keep your flowers fresh, drop one tablet into the vase. Experimentation shows this method doesn’t work well.
Add a penny
It has been claimed that adding a penny to your flower water preserves flowers by acting as an antibacterial and fungicide. Although this method is quick and inexpensive, it doesn’t appear to work well in practice.
Bleach
Bleach is though to preserve fresh flowers by preventing the growth of mold on the flowers. It’s recommended that a cup of bleach be added to the water in your flower vase to keep flowers perky and fresh. Experimentation has shown this does seem to prolong the life of fresh flowers, but causes some color fading.
Changing the water
This method of preserving fresh flowers is thought to prevent bacteria from overgrowing in the water causing the flowers to die prematurely. This is a technique that appears to live up to its claims.
Sugar
The idea here is the addition of a teaspoon of sugar will mimic the rush of sugar that occurs naturally in plants during the process of photosynthesis. Studies have shown this does promote the lifespan of fresh flowers.
Preventing temperature changes and avoidance of direct sunlight
This is another method that appears to work in preserving the freshness of flowers. This can expand the life of fresh flowers by several days.
Commercial Flower food
This seems to be the most effective way to preserve fresh flowers. How does it work? The ingredients in flower food help to reduce the concentration of bacteria in the water, keep the water acidic, and supply the flowers with sugar. By adding commercial flower food to the vase, you may be able to keep your flowers fresh for a full week.
If you want to keep your flowers fresh and bright for a longer period of time, choose your methods wisely. It appears that the use of commercial flower food and taking simple measures to keep your flowers out of direct sunlight and away from extreme temperatures works the best. If you don’t have flower food available, adding sugar to the water and changing the water frequently can help to keep flowers fresh longer.
Preserving your fresh flowers can keep those beautiful colors around longer and give you the psychological boost you need.
How To Grow Your Own Pomegranate Plant
How To Grow Your Own Pomegranate Plant.
It seems as if there’s more positive news each week about the health benefits of the pomegranate fruit. If you’re a gardener and would like to have your own supply of pomegranate, you can grow this healthy and delicious plant in your yard. Not only can you enjoy the health benefits of the magnificent pomegranate fruit, you can use it to add visual interest to fruit bowls.. Its flaming red color makes it an eye catching addition to any fruit assortment. Here’s how to grow pomegranate in your own backyard:
How to grow pomegranate : Choose an area for planting
Pomegranate plants thrive in sunny, warm areas. Although they will still grow in partial shade for best results choose a sunny area for planting. These plants are rather hardy and can survive colder temperatures although the risk of plant damage increases when temperatures drop below freezing. These plants can add a pleasing note of color to your yard or garden.
How to grow pomegranate : Purchase your pomegranate plants.
You can purchase pomegranate cuttings from your local nursery which is the recommended way of starting your pomegranate plant. Choose cuttings around fifteen inches in length and plant them in standard soil after treating the cuttings with rooting hormone. It will take about three years before your pomegranate plants will yield fruit.
How to grow pomegranate : Care of your pomegranate plants.
Water your new pomegranate plants thoroughly upon planting as well as every few days for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, you can reduce watering frequency to once every ten days. Fertilize the plants lightly after growth starts and then three times yearly, once in very early spring, once in the summer, and again at the end of the summer.
How to grow pomegranate : Harvesting.
You should start to see fruit production after about three years. Harvest the fruit when they make a metallic sound when tapped. Do not allow the fruit to become overly ripe as they may split open.
How to grow pomegranate : Enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Pomegranate fruit can be stored for up to six months once harvested if kept at a temperature of between 35 degrees Fahrenheit and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. You can enjoy the fresh fruit or use the juice to make a variety of syrups, healthy drinks, smoothies, jellies, salsa, soups, gelatin desserts and a host of other delicious and healthy treats.
Why not discover the joy of growing your own Pomegranate plant? You’ll be rewarded with a delicious fruit that can enhance your taste buds as well as your health.
It seems as if there’s more positive news each week about the health benefits of the pomegranate fruit. If you’re a gardener and would like to have your own supply of pomegranate, you can grow this healthy and delicious plant in your yard. Not only can you enjoy the health benefits of the magnificent pomegranate fruit, you can use it to add visual interest to fruit bowls.. Its flaming red color makes it an eye catching addition to any fruit assortment. Here’s how to grow pomegranate in your own backyard:
How to grow pomegranate : Choose an area for planting
Pomegranate plants thrive in sunny, warm areas. Although they will still grow in partial shade for best results choose a sunny area for planting. These plants are rather hardy and can survive colder temperatures although the risk of plant damage increases when temperatures drop below freezing. These plants can add a pleasing note of color to your yard or garden.
How to grow pomegranate : Purchase your pomegranate plants.
You can purchase pomegranate cuttings from your local nursery which is the recommended way of starting your pomegranate plant. Choose cuttings around fifteen inches in length and plant them in standard soil after treating the cuttings with rooting hormone. It will take about three years before your pomegranate plants will yield fruit.
How to grow pomegranate : Care of your pomegranate plants.
Water your new pomegranate plants thoroughly upon planting as well as every few days for the first two weeks. After the first two weeks, you can reduce watering frequency to once every ten days. Fertilize the plants lightly after growth starts and then three times yearly, once in very early spring, once in the summer, and again at the end of the summer.
How to grow pomegranate : Harvesting.
You should start to see fruit production after about three years. Harvest the fruit when they make a metallic sound when tapped. Do not allow the fruit to become overly ripe as they may split open.
How to grow pomegranate : Enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Pomegranate fruit can be stored for up to six months once harvested if kept at a temperature of between 35 degrees Fahrenheit and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. You can enjoy the fresh fruit or use the juice to make a variety of syrups, healthy drinks, smoothies, jellies, salsa, soups, gelatin desserts and a host of other delicious and healthy treats.
Why not discover the joy of growing your own Pomegranate plant? You’ll be rewarded with a delicious fruit that can enhance your taste buds as well as your health.
How to Grow Turmeric
How to Grow Turmeric.
By now you’re probably aware of the beneficial properties of turmeric. It’s also an important spice used in the preparation of a variety of fragrant and delicious Indian dishes. Although turmeric can be found in its dried form at your local supermarket, there are advantages to growing turmeric on your own.
Turmeric is derived from the rhizome portion of the plant which appears similar to the more commonly seen ginger rhizome seen in your grocery store. The best turmeric flavor comes only from fresh rhizomes with the flavor dimension rapidly declining during the drying process due to evaporation of the essential oils. When turmeric is ground is also becomes bitter, preventing you from experiencing the true flavor potential it posses when you buy it dried from the supermarket. One solution is to grow turmeric in your own garden or greenhouse.
Turmeric grows well only in moist, hot climates. You can probably grow turmeric successfully outdoors if you live in the Sun Belt region as long you plant it where it will receive the most direct heat from the sun. If you live in a less hospitable environment, you can grow turmeric in a greenhouse although they may not achieve the same stature as the plants grown outdoors in hot, humid climates.
Growing turmeric can be as simple as purchasing the fresh roots. You may be able to purchase fresh roots from a local Asian market. If not, turmeric plants can be ordered online or from some local nurseries. If you’ll be using fresh turmeric roots, select ones that have fat fingers since you’ll be planting the fingers in the soil to start your turmeric plant.
Once you have your fresh roots, remove the fingers and plant them in well drained, fertile soil in direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist but not wet enough to allow water stagnation. Watch for turmeric shoots to appear in about two months. You can also grow turmeric in a greenhouse by planting the roots in pots with well drained potting soil. Make sure the soil remains moist but don’t over water so that water pooling can occur. You can also grow turmeric outdoors during the warm months of the year and bring them indoors when the weather turns cold. During the growing season, feed the plants with a general purpose fertilizer.
The rhizomes are usually harvested eight to ten months after planting when the leaves and stems of the plant become dry. To do this, carefully dig out the plants after removing the leaves. Lift out the turmeric clumps and manually remove the dirt. They can then be soaked in water to remove any additional soiling and dried naturally. The clumps should be stored in a cool place without excess moisture. Stored clumps can be replanted in the spring.
Growing turmeric can be a great way to enjoy the considerable health benefits this herb offers. Plus, you’ll have the pleasure of knowing you cultivated it yourself.
Turmeric: Spices of Life (Woodland Health Series)
Spice of Life: Magical Healing Power of Turmeric
The Golden touch of Turmeric: Turmeric (Curcuma longa), a perennial shrub that belongs to the ginger family, has long been regarded as an important spice ... saffron.: An article from: Vibrant Life
Gale Encyclopedia of Alternative Medicine: Turmeric
The effect of turmeric extracts on inflammatory mediator production.: An article from: Phytomedicine: International Journal of Phytotherapy & Phytopharmacology
Spicing up your life: can turmeric, the spice that adds color and flavor to Asian foods, play a role in preventing Alzheimer's disease? Scientists are ... An article from: Saturday Evening Post
03 May 2008
Indoor Gardening – It’s not THAT hard!
Indoor gardening is similar to keeping fish. Now, on face value that might seem like a stupid thing to say, let me explain:
You have a responsibility to look after your 'stock', ensure its well being and do everything possible to avoid disease, distress and maximise fruition. It not only requires passion but consistency and adaptable with the seasonal changes. When it comes to indoor gardening, we talk about the most common kind that involves greenhouses. Greenhouses are specific places that many skilled and professional gardeners as well as amateur gardeners use.
Greenhouses are made from either out of glass, or out of plastic material, and can be found in a variety of different sizes and shapes. They are the preferred method of indoor gardening because the temperature in the greenhouse can be adjusted.
Not only is it about having the knowledge to pull this off without disaster it is also about having adequate equipment for the job such as grow tents, canatronics etc. Creating the correct conditions to promote growth are paramount. These can be achieved one of two ways; you can either buy an expensive, all singing, all dancing kit with automatic sensors and monitors that will do half of the work for you. OR, you can make an effort and learn about what you are doing before you dive in headfirst, this allows you the opportunity to accumulate your equipment from a number of places, hardware stores, Car Boot sales, etc. for a fraction of the cost while being equally effective and successful.
I have successfully grown tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, basil, parsley and have just started on broccoli. I have a small, modest setup in my otherwise useless shed in my garden which, apart severe temperature changes, has been very simple to maintain. See an earlier post about hydroponics and indoor gardening.
It is a satisfying and rewarding hobby that gives you a real sense of achievement and I can heartily recommend it!
You have a responsibility to look after your 'stock', ensure its well being and do everything possible to avoid disease, distress and maximise fruition. It not only requires passion but consistency and adaptable with the seasonal changes. When it comes to indoor gardening, we talk about the most common kind that involves greenhouses. Greenhouses are specific places that many skilled and professional gardeners as well as amateur gardeners use.
Greenhouses are made from either out of glass, or out of plastic material, and can be found in a variety of different sizes and shapes. They are the preferred method of indoor gardening because the temperature in the greenhouse can be adjusted.
Not only is it about having the knowledge to pull this off without disaster it is also about having adequate equipment for the job such as grow tents, canatronics etc. Creating the correct conditions to promote growth are paramount. These can be achieved one of two ways; you can either buy an expensive, all singing, all dancing kit with automatic sensors and monitors that will do half of the work for you. OR, you can make an effort and learn about what you are doing before you dive in headfirst, this allows you the opportunity to accumulate your equipment from a number of places, hardware stores, Car Boot sales, etc. for a fraction of the cost while being equally effective and successful.
I have successfully grown tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, basil, parsley and have just started on broccoli. I have a small, modest setup in my otherwise useless shed in my garden which, apart severe temperature changes, has been very simple to maintain. See an earlier post about hydroponics and indoor gardening.
It is a satisfying and rewarding hobby that gives you a real sense of achievement and I can heartily recommend it!
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